Day 5, Pilgrim Spokes – Off The Road and Onto the Katy Trail

From a crummy morning in rain and heavy traffic to a delightful coast onto the Katy Trail

Now in Missouri, my day starts in Warrensburg, along a very busy US-50 into Sedalia. My day ends well into the Katy Trail, with friends who I’ll spend the next couple days with at a leisurely pace along this national treasure of a rail trail.

  • I’m once again impressed by the warmth and friendliness of Midwesterners, as a young woman stops her car in the rain and offers to help me as I fix a flat.
  • Breakfast at the Sunrise Cafe reminds me that I’m entering a part of the country where cigarette smoking in a diner is socially acceptable.
  • A missed shift causes me to get help, taking me back to a bike shop in Sedalia before moving along to Hartsburg.
  • I meet Dan and Susan who’re traversing the Katy Trail on their Tandem, and we chat about careers and marriage, and what it takes to make either last.
  • Arriving at The Globe Hotel, I meet Rick, who doesn’t have a thing for cats, and for whom cats likewise have no thing.
  • I’m pleased to recall the story of “please” in Cincinnati… Please, you say?
  • It’s Thursday, so no food is available in town. Well, except the pizza. Because it’s Thursday.
  • Did I mention the cats?

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Sunrise along US-50 after riding through drizzle for the first hour of pre-dawn light.
Onto the Katy Trail
One of many cut banks along the Katy Trail

Day 4, Pilgrim Spokes – Eastern Kansas and Western Missouri

Out of the prairie, into the woods

Though this is the fourth day of riding recounted in Pilgrim Spokes, it’s the second day of riding for me on this final leg of the journey. I begin my day at Ottawa in eastern Kansas, and make my way east into hills that roll a bit more and trees that are less and less sparse with each mile.

I meet some fun people on this day, including my first encounter with fellow cross-country cyclists. Highlights include:

  • A young couple who run a convenience store in Harrisonville who struggle with the concept that someone would be riding their bicycle 100 miles, let alone across the country.
  • James and Lei, a couple of fellow cross-country cyclists, one of whom had never ridden a bike in his life before having a new bike shipped to the west coast, flying out to meet it, strapping gear on it, and beginning the punishing trek east. Really.
  • Jeremy at the bike store in Warrensburg, who’s takes my blog information to pass onto his folks, (who’re my age presumably), thinking they might get out and exercise more. Apparently he’s astounded that an old fart like me can gather the wits to make a bike stay upright, not to mention ride it across the country.
  • Several miles of unintended gravel road – big chunks of gravel that are awful on road tires. (One of the disadvantages of picking routes myself rather than using routes from somewhere like Adventure Cycling was that I ended up on a couple sections of road like this for short distances.)

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Another beautiful sunrise in Kansas - My last Kansas sunrise as I cross the border into Missouri.
Typical small midwestern town, this one is Harrisonville I think.
The advantage of picking routes myself is I get to end up on beautiful backcountry roads like this.

Day 3 – Cottonwood Falls to Ottawa

Out of the Flint Hills and into eastern Kansas

A fog hangs just above us as we begin our next day before dawn, continuing north in the heart of the Flint Hills along K-177. It’s a chapter of transition in Pilgrim Spokes, as the actual chronology of the ride was such that 2 years elapsed between the morning ride and the completion of the day in Ottawa. I couldn’t take the month+ off work to complete the cross-country journey in a single year, so needed to split it up. Dave had the same issue, so our miles across the country were broken chronologically in such a way that we rode about half the journey together and about half of it alone.

But this day of transition is more than just about chronology, as I explore in Pilgrim Spokes. Highlights include:

  • A foggy start through the beautiful Flint Hills shrouded in mist.
  • Breakfast at the Saddle Rock Cafe.
  • That point of transition where on Ride 1 Dave and I continue north through the Flint Hills, and back out into Western Kansas.
  • Ride 2 which I pick up in this section, experiencing a second Kansas sunrise, this time alone.
  • Riding east out of the Flint Hills on the first day of the final leg of the journey.
  • Talking to Jeff in Osage City, and his experience getting hit by a pickup truck while cycling.
  • Dinner with Bubba in Ottawa.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Morning ride through the Flint Hills
Flint Hills farmstead
Sunrise in eastern Kansas headed east on the final leg of the journey

Day 2 – Pilgrim Spokes, Wellington to Cottonwood Falls

Into the Flint Hills

Our morning ride east from Wellington along 160 is treacherous with morning traffic and thick fog. We enjoy breakfast at a diner in Winfield, then let the south wind decide our route for the rest of the journey at this fork in the road. Admittedly, the Flint Hills feel like “home” to me, and I really want to share this wonderful region with Dave.

The heat and traffic lead us to ask for a little help across the busy section of US-77 through El Dorado. Starting to pedal again on the NE side of El Dorado, we journey forth into the July Kansas swelter and through the Flint Hills. A wonderful ride through this gorgeous region leads us to Cottonwood Falls, where we decide to end our day at the Millstream Resort Motel along the Cottonwood River.

The next day is a wonderful rest day there in Cottonwood Falls, and we enjoy the local color and style. I spend a good deal of time talking about this color and style in Pilgrim Spokes, along with discussions with several of the people we met along the path from Wellington to Cottonwood Falls. I learn that pie fixes everything, catfishing is alive and well, and spend a little time hunting with Beethoven. I also introduce readers to the concept of tennis on the back porch.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Foggy start to the morning out of Wellington
Highway 177 in the Flint Hills
Back veranda at the Millstream Resort Motel in Cottonwood Falls

Midwest Book Review Thumbs Up for Pilgrim Spokes

Thanks to D. Donovan for a very nice review

 

Midwest Book Review had some very kind words for Pilgrim Spokes in their June issue. Check out the review at MBR’s June online site, or at the reviewers site, but below are a couple of highlights:

  • “Pilgrim Spokes delivers a delightful blend of travelogue, cycling insights, and reflections on his journey along America’s byways.”
  • “Not a hasty rush through America, his journey allowed a deep and meaningful embrace of the experience as he meandered from the Pacific to the Atlantic. It would have thwarted the spirit of this journey to have edited out many of these experiences for the sake of cramming them all into one book.  Reflecting the slower pace of a bicycle ride, Pilgrim Spokes indulges the reader within a journey that fully explores the sights, sounds, sensations, and encounters of the road..” 
  • “Readers need not be avid cyclists in order to appreciate Pilgrim Spokes. The focus is on the experience and the journey, not just the destination or the mechanics of getting there.”
  • “Hanson immerses the reader in the cultures and experiences of the communities who invite him in to their world…”
  • “The introspection prompted by Hanson’s encounters is wonderfully done…”
  • “Hanson’s story takes the time to capture subtle nuances within his journey, and this sets it apart from other travelogues.”

“Pilgrim Spokes is a vivid read filled with personal reflection, philosophical insights, physical challenges, and a dose of spirituality that immerses the reader in an exhilarating ride.”

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Pilgrim Spokes Day 1 – Western Kansas

Out of the Medicine Hills and onto the humid southern Kansas farmland

Pilgrim Spokes opens with Dave and I sharing some friendly banter and chicken fried steak with a couple bikers in Medicine Lodge after riding about 40 miles before breakfast. This 40 miles section through the Medicine Hills was covered in Pilgrim Wheels, so we begin Pilgrim Spokes at the diner over chicken fried steak.

We glide from there out into the humid farmland of southern Kansas, enjoying the ongoing good nature and hospitality of the wonderful Kansas folk we’re privileged to meet. The heat is oppressive, and we wallow in the AC at a diner in Harper, where we launch into dialogue about the Jedi powers of women and the magical formulas for making relationships last through life.

Thunderstorms building around us convince us to stop after about 115 miles for the day in Wellington, where the AC in the room can’t keep up with the heat, but this doesn’t seem to bother anyone but Dave and I. We have supper at a little 50’s theme diner, and suffer through a hot night’s sleep with a freight train of an AC unit trying in vain to manage the heat.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Sunrise in the Medicine Hills
Southern Kansas Farm Country
The AC didn't work well in 100 degree heat and 100% humidity

Pilgrim Spokes First Release Today

eBook Format Released Today

Hopefully I get better and better each time at estimating and predicting timelines for book releases with each book I release, and someday I’ll actually get it exactly right… While I’m hitting my predicted release date for Pilgrim Spokes in eBook format, it looks like I’m still a couple weeks out for the paperback format. However, it’s available today for pre-order from Amazon, and they’ll be able to ship them out about June 15 on the paperback release date. I’m planning a series of posts to correspond to the route I followed on the bicycle ride that story in Pilgrim Spokes is woven around, along with images for each post.

Stay tuned for more information, and for some periodic specials on both the paperback and the eBook.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

The Beginning and The End

Sunrise on the morning in the Medicine Hills of western Kansas where Pilgrim Spokes begins
Getting ready to start the final leg in the pre-dawn darkness in Kansas
Sunrise in Kansas on the first morning of the last 10 day leg of the journey
Moonrise Over The Chesapeake
Celebratory toast in Annapolis at the completion of the ride.

Pilgrim Spokes – ARC Update

Pilgrim Spokes ARCs Available In April – Options 

If you’ve signed up for an Advanced Review Copy of Pilgrim Spokes, a couple of things:

First and foremost: Thank You! Each book I publish teaches me a little more about the publishing industry. The big gorilla in the business are those 5-star reviews you see as soon as a book is released. While obviously every review isn’t 5-star for any book, if my writing wasn’t your cup of tea you probably wouldn’t want to do an advanced review for my next book. Advanced readers are a foundation of folks who generally enjoy what I write, and I treasure your fine literary taste. 🙂

Availability and format. The book is complete and “in production” as they say in the publishing world. It’s in various stages of design and layout, and in the coming weeks will go to the printer. However, the manuscript itself – the content – is complete, and I will have the following formats available to send for review by 4/20:

  • PDF. The old standby that can be read on any device, though it’s really only practical if you’re going to read on something like a computer screen or an iPad.
  • ePub. This is the format that is used by iBooks and Nook.
  • Kindle. The MOBI file is Amazon’s proprietary format, and while it’s a more convoluted process for me to get a MOBI file to your Kindle for you, I can surely do it if Kindle is your preferred format. (Amazon has the lion’s share of the eBook market, so most of us-including me-use this format as our primary e-reading platform.)

If you prefer a printed copy, I hope to have those available for advanced reviews in early to mid May. If you choose an electronic file for the advanced review, but want a printed copy when they come out as well, just let me know and I’m happy to send that to you when it releases.

A Bad Road – Cycling US40 in Pennsylvania

Day 34 – St Clairsville to Grantsville – Cycling US40

118 miles, 13:05 elapsed time, 9.5 hours pedaling, 11,400 ft elevation gain, 8400 calories burned

The pre-dawn morning air chills us, up high on a hill overlooking the area surrounding St Clairsville, mounting up for another day in the saddle. The coming sunrise spills warm orange and rich reds across the sky. The view across the hilltops is breathtaking, and we take a few pictures, knowing full well these aren’t the kind of shots that translate into anything other than “ho-hum” if you’re not standing there.

With this chilly air, I’d love to have bit of climbing to warm my joints and muscles as a beginning to the day. However, as soon as we leave town, we begin a two-mile descent steep enough to require quite a bit of braking. It’s cold enough I’m uncertain about potential icy spots on the road as we fall into the coldest air at the base of the descent, where the road crosses the old Blaine Hill Bridge over Wheeling Creek.

The old Blain Hill Bridge after descending through the chilly morning air
The old Blain Hill Bridge after descending through the chilly morning air

It won’t be the last time today I’ll wish for another layer of warmth…

The road follows Wheeling Creek for several miles, meandering through old towns and past 200 years of history few people remember. It’s early in the morning on a Sunday, so traffic is extremely light, giving us a chance to stop and take lots of photo’s as we cross the Ohio River twice. The second crossing uses the old Wheeling Suspension Bridge.

Dave As We Follow The Creek
Dave As We Follow The Creek
Dave Crossing The Old Wheeling Suspension Bridge
Dave Crossing The Old Wheeling Suspension Bridge

This is a beautiful old bridge, built in the middle of the 19th century. It spent two years as the longest suspension bridge in the world, and was the first bridge across the Ohio River. Dave and I walk the bridge, taking lots of photos, soaking in the history and beauty of the place.

In Wheeling, we begin to rely heavily on the maps I planned and loaded into my Garmin. Prior to this as we’ve crossed the country, we’ve just used these maps as a backup – something to get us back on track if we stray to far from our route in our meandering. Here is Wheeling, we just take whatever turns the Garmin tells us to take, and are rewarded with a wonderful ride through town, following an excellent bicycle path for several miles along an old railroad grade, dropping us off in Elm Grove east of Wheeling. Continue reading “A Bad Road – Cycling US40 in Pennsylvania”

Columbus to St Clairsville in Ohio – Cycling in Ohio

Day 33 – Columbus to St Clairsville

Eastern Ohio

Next morning it’s about 200% humidity as we roll our bikes out of the Comfort Inn at Obetz and saddle-up. I slept nearly zero last night, as there is apparently a softball tournament in town, and there was lots of party spirit all around us. All night. Suffice it to say that I’m making zero effort to be quiet as I’m getting ready to leave at 5:30 in the morning…

Meandering east and north through the suburbs east of Columbus, we eventually make our way back up to Old 40 as it parallels I-70. It’s a four-lane highway that’s essentially deserted of cars. I realize it’s a Saturday morning, which could account for the low traffic volume, but it looks like a highway that doesn’t see much use. After a few miles, the road narrows back down to 2 lanes, and begins to feel very much like The Old National Pike.

Historic OhioIt strikes me that right here, this morning, the road around me has shifted a bit in historical time. It was the early 1800’s when this old Pike was commissioned by a young nation, and the remains of history that old is becoming evident. Back then, this was considered “the West”, being “tamed” by this new road reaching out and offering a path for commerce and expansion. Today, as I ride my bike along the pleasant old road, up and down the increasing hills, I’ve entered “the East”.

Continue reading “Columbus to St Clairsville in Ohio – Cycling in Ohio”