Day 15, Pilgrim Spokes – Western Pennsylvania

Our Day From Hell

 

The one consistent bit of advice I got for the eastern half of the country was to avoid riding on the highways in western Pennsylvania. Especially US-40. But after a particularly good day yesterday, we decided to go ahead and US-40 a try. How bad could it be, anyway?

By the end of the day we’d been assaulted with empty beer bottles from a passing pickup truck, ridden 118 miles, and climbed nearly 12,000 feet. I was bruised, battered, and bone tired as we finished the day well after dark, riding steep and hilly roads while the temperature plummeted to below 40 degrees F.

One large pizza (covered with every kind of meat available) and a hot shower fixed me right up. But it’s a day I won’t ever forget. Probably the hardest (and worst) day of riding between the Pacific and the Atlantic, sandwiched between two wonderful days.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Day 14, Pilgrim Spokes – Eastern Ohio

Finding Dave Again

It’s a delightful day of riding 131 miles through the rolling hills of eastern Ohio. We’re chased by thunderstorms across the final ten miles or so  into the wonderful old town of St Clairsville. We enjoy local gossip over lunch at Juanita’s in Zanesville just before crossing the historic “Y-Bridge” there in town. Looking back on the trip across the country, this day is clearly one of my favorites. A beautiful day gliding through beautiful rolling countryside, feeling strong at the end of a long day. The day ends with Dave and I making the worst decision of our trip, fueled by an arrogance born from a sense of strength, lots of protein, and a couple beers. We’ll pay for that decision the next day in the hills of western Pennsylvania.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Day 13, Pilgrim Spokes – Western Ohio

Finding Dave Again

We ride 123 miles across central Ohio, experiencing what might be the most spectacular sunrise of the entire journey as the fog and mist lift over western Ohio. A wonderful breakfast at Waffle House with a group of Amish caps a perfect morning, then I get us a little lost heading through Dayton, but we end up in the right place to ride for many miles along a wonderful paved bike trail. In London we meet Bicycle Bob (or Bicycle Bill?), who seems to be an unlikely town elder. Our day ends with a large dose of very rude drivers around Columbus, and a sleepless night thanks to a softball team full of party passion on our floor at the hotel.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

A Bad Road – Cycling US40 in Pennsylvania

Day 34 – St Clairsville to Grantsville – Cycling US40

118 miles, 13:05 elapsed time, 9.5 hours pedaling, 11,400 ft elevation gain, 8400 calories burned

The pre-dawn morning air chills us, up high on a hill overlooking the area surrounding St Clairsville, mounting up for another day in the saddle. The coming sunrise spills warm orange and rich reds across the sky. The view across the hilltops is breathtaking, and we take a few pictures, knowing full well these aren’t the kind of shots that translate into anything other than “ho-hum” if you’re not standing there.

With this chilly air, I’d love to have bit of climbing to warm my joints and muscles as a beginning to the day. However, as soon as we leave town, we begin a two-mile descent steep enough to require quite a bit of braking. It’s cold enough I’m uncertain about potential icy spots on the road as we fall into the coldest air at the base of the descent, where the road crosses the old Blaine Hill Bridge over Wheeling Creek.

The old Blain Hill Bridge after descending through the chilly morning air
The old Blain Hill Bridge after descending through the chilly morning air

It won’t be the last time today I’ll wish for another layer of warmth…

The road follows Wheeling Creek for several miles, meandering through old towns and past 200 years of history few people remember. It’s early in the morning on a Sunday, so traffic is extremely light, giving us a chance to stop and take lots of photo’s as we cross the Ohio River twice. The second crossing uses the old Wheeling Suspension Bridge.

Dave As We Follow The Creek
Dave As We Follow The Creek
Dave Crossing The Old Wheeling Suspension Bridge
Dave Crossing The Old Wheeling Suspension Bridge

This is a beautiful old bridge, built in the middle of the 19th century. It spent two years as the longest suspension bridge in the world, and was the first bridge across the Ohio River. Dave and I walk the bridge, taking lots of photos, soaking in the history and beauty of the place.

In Wheeling, we begin to rely heavily on the maps I planned and loaded into my Garmin. Prior to this as we’ve crossed the country, we’ve just used these maps as a backup – something to get us back on track if we stray to far from our route in our meandering. Here is Wheeling, we just take whatever turns the Garmin tells us to take, and are rewarded with a wonderful ride through town, following an excellent bicycle path for several miles along an old railroad grade, dropping us off in Elm Grove east of Wheeling. Continue reading “A Bad Road – Cycling US40 in Pennsylvania”

Columbus to St Clairsville in Ohio – Cycling in Ohio

Day 33 – Columbus to St Clairsville

Eastern Ohio

Next morning it’s about 200% humidity as we roll our bikes out of the Comfort Inn at Obetz and saddle-up. I slept nearly zero last night, as there is apparently a softball tournament in town, and there was lots of party spirit all around us. All night. Suffice it to say that I’m making zero effort to be quiet as I’m getting ready to leave at 5:30 in the morning…

Meandering east and north through the suburbs east of Columbus, we eventually make our way back up to Old 40 as it parallels I-70. It’s a four-lane highway that’s essentially deserted of cars. I realize it’s a Saturday morning, which could account for the low traffic volume, but it looks like a highway that doesn’t see much use. After a few miles, the road narrows back down to 2 lanes, and begins to feel very much like The Old National Pike.

Historic OhioIt strikes me that right here, this morning, the road around me has shifted a bit in historical time. It was the early 1800’s when this old Pike was commissioned by a young nation, and the remains of history that old is becoming evident. Back then, this was considered “the West”, being “tamed” by this new road reaching out and offering a path for commerce and expansion. Today, as I ride my bike along the pleasant old road, up and down the increasing hills, I’ve entered “the East”.

Continue reading “Columbus to St Clairsville in Ohio – Cycling in Ohio”

Bike Paths in Ohio

Day 32 – Richmond to Columbus in Ohio – Bike Paths in Ohio

Ohio Sunrise

It’s a low foggy mist as we roll our bikes out of our room at the Knight’s Inn at Richmond in the pre-dawn darkness. Riding east through town along the Old National Road, we stop for calories at a c-store at the intersection with I-70, lamenting the late starts that go with cycling in September.

While traffic is heavier than we’d like, the fog lifts it’s skirts a few miles out of Richmond, and we’re treated to a rich and lustrous sunrise over the fields of western Ohio. The thick air adds a muted quality to the beauty, and the traffic shrivels in my mind as I let myself fall into the unfolding wonder along the horizon. I’m at the top of a rise, with a long, gentle downhill slope in front of me. There’s a farmstead on the right side of the road, a modern silo and grain machinery reaching up through the light mist that lays across the field. The rich reds and oranges of the morning sky pour themselves over this bucolic scene.

A sailor might take warning at this red morning sky. In the back of my mind I know it could foretell the rainy day the forecasters are predicting. In my heart and soul, this unforgettable morning sky is one more reminder of how lucky I am to be out here, in and amongst the universe as it unfolds.

Ohio Sunrise

Every day the sun rises, often in the sort of spectacle I’m witness to this morning. If the sunrise isn’t particularly wonderful, then perhaps it’s the sunset. If not the sunset, then maybe some other magical nugget the world is sharing. Soaked in the beauty of the morning, I realize that beauty like this only feels rare to me because my life keeps me focused on the little details in front of me every day. I get up, have my breakfast, commute to work, pour my energy into something there… Continue reading “Bike Paths in Ohio”

Bicycle Touring in Ohio – Chillicothe

Day 11 – Resting in Chillicothe, OH

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

RIght now I’ve got a rest day planned in Chillicothe, because I thought it was a place folks went for weekends when I lived in Cincinnati. Problem is I can’t remember why folks went… Any thoughts on why Chillicothe’s a great place to spend a rest day, and what to do?

Bicycle Touring in Ohio – Eaton to Chillicothe – Planned Day 10

Day 10 – Eaton, OH to Chillicothe, OH

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

I really need some feedback on this day – is US35 an OK road to ride? What about the route through Dayton?

Below is a map of Day 10 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.