Tag: Bicycle

Day 14, Pilgrim Spokes – Eastern Ohio

Finding Dave Again

It’s a delightful day of riding 131 miles through the rolling hills of eastern Ohio. We’re chased by thunderstorms across the final ten miles or so  into the wonderful old town of St Clairsville. We enjoy local gossip over lunch at Juanita’s in Zanesville just before crossing the historic “Y-Bridge” there in town. Looking back on the trip across the country, this day is clearly one of my favorites. A beautiful day gliding through beautiful rolling countryside, feeling strong at the end of a long day. The day ends with Dave and I making the worst decision of our trip, fueled by an arrogance born from a sense of strength, lots of protein, and a couple beers. We’ll pay for that decision the next day in the hills of western Pennsylvania.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Day 10, Pilgrim Spokes – Across Central Illinois

Greenville, IL to Terre Haute, IN along the Old National Road by bicycle

 

I begin my tenth day of riding in Pilgrim Spokes in Greenville, IL. It’s a chilly 39 degrees (F) as I begin my ride, and I’m on the Old National Road (US-40) within the first hour of riding. I’ll generally follow this old historic highway most of the way to the east coast.

  • I explore my first covered bridge (The Jackson Truss Covered Bridge) of the trip on this day, in Greenup along the Old Cumberland Road.
  • I enjoy a windy lunch in Effingham.
  • I get to see the largest wind chimes in the world in Casey.
  • I get to meet Mary, who’s riding her bike from Annapolis to Colorado.
  • I get to meet three other wonderful young people riding from Indiana to Colorado. In Pilgrim Spokes, I think I might refer to them as hippies, and I use that term with positive and affectionate intent, in memory of my own (possibly slightly hippyish) youth.
  • I continue to enjoy miles and miles and miles of Midwest farmland. Oh, and flat… Kansas has nothin’ on this stretch of Illinois for flat!

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Wonderful flat Midwestern farmland abounds across Illinois
The old Jackson Truss Covered Bridge in Greenup, Illinois.
The world's largest wind chimes in Casey, IL.

Day 8, Pilgrim Spokes – Across The Mighty Mississippi

The Final Section of The Katy Trail, and Back Onto Roads

Breakfast with George (at the Concord Hill Bed and Breakfast) was one of the most fun chapters to write in Pilgrim Spokes, and starts my final day on the Katy Trail out wonderfully.  I leave the leisurely pace I’ve enjoyed over the past couple days with my good friends behind, kicking into the last 50 miles or so with a strong pace that takes me to Alton after crossing the mighty Mississippi River on a beautiful modern bridge.

The town of Augusta calls me heavily, a bar and grill hanging invitingly out toward the trail, but I resist. However, the Ted Drewes I pass is beyond my ability to fly past, and I stop to enjoy what folks in St Louis are convinced is the best frozen custard on earth.

Further up the road I meet some new folks and enjoy a break in the old river town of St Charles, which many folks mistakenly think is the eastern end of the Katy Trail. In reality, the trail extends another 12 miles or so beyond St Charles, and after a little lunch I continue the deserted section of trail, not seeing another human being until after I exit the trail and get onto the roads along the flood plain.

After crossing a beautiful modern bridge across the mighty Mississippi, I find my way to the Beall Mansion Bed and Breakfast Inn, where Jim welcomes me and shows me up to the Butler’s Quarters. This is another transition point for me, leaving friends behind and kicking my pace up, out alone on the highway again.

Pedal, Breathe, Smile, and Enjoy…

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

I just can't get enough of how pretty the trail is when it glides along beside the river.
A cut corn field east of St Charles along the Katy Trail
The bridge across the mighty Mississippi at Alton

Day 6, Pilgrim Spokes – The Katy Trail

The Katy Trail from Hartsburg to Rhineland

My first full day on the Katy Trail takes me from Hartsburg to Rhineland, where we stay at The Doll House B&B. We pedal along a gorgeous tree lined trail through tiny little burgs. The trail falls out along the river plain occasionally, then tucks back into woods that open now and then to farm fields on one side or the other. Beautiful dives through occasional cut banks, and fun crossings of creeks on old bridges just add to the wonder of another great day of leisurely riding.

The Katy Trail is truly a national treasure, and I enjoy the many conversations I have with folks along the trail almost as much as I enjoy the riding itself. This is the first of a couple days I spend riding at a relaxed and conversational pace with good friends who I’ve known most of my life.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

One of many old bridges along the Katy Trail
The Katy Trail often moves treats the rider to wonderful glides beside the Missouri River
While meandering often through tunnels through the deciduous tree canopy, there are many miles where the trail opens to farmland on one side or the other.

Day 5, Pilgrim Spokes – Off The Road and Onto the Katy Trail

From a crummy morning in rain and heavy traffic to a delightful coast onto the Katy Trail

Now in Missouri, my day starts in Warrensburg, along a very busy US-50 into Sedalia. My day ends well into the Katy Trail, with friends who I’ll spend the next couple days with at a leisurely pace along this national treasure of a rail trail.

  • I’m once again impressed by the warmth and friendliness of Midwesterners, as a young woman stops her car in the rain and offers to help me as I fix a flat.
  • Breakfast at the Sunrise Cafe reminds me that I’m entering a part of the country where cigarette smoking in a diner is socially acceptable.
  • A missed shift causes me to get help, taking me back to a bike shop in Sedalia before moving along to Hartsburg.
  • I meet Dan and Susan who’re traversing the Katy Trail on their Tandem, and we chat about careers and marriage, and what it takes to make either last.
  • Arriving at The Globe Hotel, I meet Rick, who doesn’t have a thing for cats, and for whom cats likewise have no thing.
  • I’m pleased to recall the story of “please” in Cincinnati… Please, you say?
  • It’s Thursday, so no food is available in town. Well, except the pizza. Because it’s Thursday.
  • Did I mention the cats?

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Sunrise along US-50 after riding through drizzle for the first hour of pre-dawn light.
Onto the Katy Trail
One of many cut banks along the Katy Trail

Day 4, Pilgrim Spokes – Eastern Kansas and Western Missouri

Out of the prairie, into the woods

Though this is the fourth day of riding recounted in Pilgrim Spokes, it’s the second day of riding for me on this final leg of the journey. I begin my day at Ottawa in eastern Kansas, and make my way east into hills that roll a bit more and trees that are less and less sparse with each mile.

I meet some fun people on this day, including my first encounter with fellow cross-country cyclists. Highlights include:

  • A young couple who run a convenience store in Harrisonville who struggle with the concept that someone would be riding their bicycle 100 miles, let alone across the country.
  • James and Lei, a couple of fellow cross-country cyclists, one of whom had never ridden a bike in his life before having a new bike shipped to the west coast, flying out to meet it, strapping gear on it, and beginning the punishing trek east. Really.
  • Jeremy at the bike store in Warrensburg, who’s takes my blog information to pass onto his folks, (who’re my age presumably), thinking they might get out and exercise more. Apparently he’s astounded that an old fart like me can gather the wits to make a bike stay upright, not to mention ride it across the country.
  • Several miles of unintended gravel road – big chunks of gravel that are awful on road tires. (One of the disadvantages of picking routes myself rather than using routes from somewhere like Adventure Cycling was that I ended up on a couple sections of road like this for short distances.)

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Another beautiful sunrise in Kansas - My last Kansas sunrise as I cross the border into Missouri.
Typical small midwestern town, this one is Harrisonville I think.
The advantage of picking routes myself is I get to end up on beautiful backcountry roads like this.

Day 3 – Cottonwood Falls to Ottawa

Out of the Flint Hills and into eastern Kansas

A fog hangs just above us as we begin our next day before dawn, continuing north in the heart of the Flint Hills along K-177. It’s a chapter of transition in Pilgrim Spokes, as the actual chronology of the ride was such that 2 years elapsed between the morning ride and the completion of the day in Ottawa. I couldn’t take the month+ off work to complete the cross-country journey in a single year, so needed to split it up. Dave had the same issue, so our miles across the country were broken chronologically in such a way that we rode about half the journey together and about half of it alone.

But this day of transition is more than just about chronology, as I explore in Pilgrim Spokes. Highlights include:

  • A foggy start through the beautiful Flint Hills shrouded in mist.
  • Breakfast at the Saddle Rock Cafe.
  • That point of transition where on Ride 1 Dave and I continue north through the Flint Hills, and back out into Western Kansas.
  • Ride 2 which I pick up in this section, experiencing a second Kansas sunrise, this time alone.
  • Riding east out of the Flint Hills on the first day of the final leg of the journey.
  • Talking to Jeff in Osage City, and his experience getting hit by a pickup truck while cycling.
  • Dinner with Bubba in Ottawa.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Morning ride through the Flint Hills
Flint Hills farmstead
Sunrise in eastern Kansas headed east on the final leg of the journey

Day 2 – Pilgrim Spokes, Wellington to Cottonwood Falls

Into the Flint Hills

Our morning ride east from Wellington along 160 is treacherous with morning traffic and thick fog. We enjoy breakfast at a diner in Winfield, then let the south wind decide our route for the rest of the journey at this fork in the road. Admittedly, the Flint Hills feel like “home” to me, and I really want to share this wonderful region with Dave.

The heat and traffic lead us to ask for a little help across the busy section of US-77 through El Dorado. Starting to pedal again on the NE side of El Dorado, we journey forth into the July Kansas swelter and through the Flint Hills. A wonderful ride through this gorgeous region leads us to Cottonwood Falls, where we decide to end our day at the Millstream Resort Motel along the Cottonwood River.

The next day is a wonderful rest day there in Cottonwood Falls, and we enjoy the local color and style. I spend a good deal of time talking about this color and style in Pilgrim Spokes, along with discussions with several of the people we met along the path from Wellington to Cottonwood Falls. I learn that pie fixes everything, catfishing is alive and well, and spend a little time hunting with Beethoven. I also introduce readers to the concept of tennis on the back porch.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Foggy start to the morning out of Wellington
Highway 177 in the Flint Hills
Back veranda at the Millstream Resort Motel in Cottonwood Falls

Midwest Book Review Thumbs Up for Pilgrim Spokes

Thanks to D. Donovan for a very nice review

 

Midwest Book Review had some very kind words for Pilgrim Spokes in their June issue. Check out the review at MBR’s June online site, or at the reviewers site, but below are a couple of highlights:

  • “Pilgrim Spokes delivers a delightful blend of travelogue, cycling insights, and reflections on his journey along America’s byways.”
  • “Not a hasty rush through America, his journey allowed a deep and meaningful embrace of the experience as he meandered from the Pacific to the Atlantic. It would have thwarted the spirit of this journey to have edited out many of these experiences for the sake of cramming them all into one book.  Reflecting the slower pace of a bicycle ride, Pilgrim Spokes indulges the reader within a journey that fully explores the sights, sounds, sensations, and encounters of the road..” 
  • “Readers need not be avid cyclists in order to appreciate Pilgrim Spokes. The focus is on the experience and the journey, not just the destination or the mechanics of getting there.”
  • “Hanson immerses the reader in the cultures and experiences of the communities who invite him in to their world…”
  • “The introspection prompted by Hanson’s encounters is wonderfully done…”
  • “Hanson’s story takes the time to capture subtle nuances within his journey, and this sets it apart from other travelogues.”

“Pilgrim Spokes is a vivid read filled with personal reflection, philosophical insights, physical challenges, and a dose of spirituality that immerses the reader in an exhilarating ride.”

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Pilgrim Spokes Day 1 – Western Kansas

Out of the Medicine Hills and onto the humid southern Kansas farmland

Pilgrim Spokes opens with Dave and I sharing some friendly banter and chicken fried steak with a couple bikers in Medicine Lodge after riding about 40 miles before breakfast. This 40 miles section through the Medicine Hills was covered in Pilgrim Wheels, so we begin Pilgrim Spokes at the diner over chicken fried steak.

We glide from there out into the humid farmland of southern Kansas, enjoying the ongoing good nature and hospitality of the wonderful Kansas folk we’re privileged to meet. The heat is oppressive, and we wallow in the AC at a diner in Harper, where we launch into dialogue about the Jedi powers of women and the magical formulas for making relationships last through life.

Thunderstorms building around us convince us to stop after about 115 miles for the day in Wellington, where the AC in the room can’t keep up with the heat, but this doesn’t seem to bother anyone but Dave and I. We have supper at a little 50’s theme diner, and suffer through a hot night’s sleep with a freight train of an AC unit trying in vain to manage the heat.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Sunrise in the Medicine Hills
Southern Kansas Farm Country
The AC didn't work well in 100 degree heat and 100% humidity