Day 11, Pilgrim Spokes – Western Indiana

Crossing Covered Bridges, Meeting Ann in Greencastle, Confronting Shuddering Gremlins, and Dinner with Cathy

One of my favorite days of riding in my trek across America are described in several chapters of Pilgrim Spokes. The early part of my day lets me explore several old iterations of the National Road, leading up to an hour or so spent exploring a couple old covered bridges that I go several miles out of my way to see.

Had I not opted to detour off my route for many miles to explore the old bridges, (of which there are many in Indiana), I wouldn’t have ended up in Greencastle where I met Ann, and wouldn’t have discovered shuddering gremlins. It was this conversation that set me up for the important (if painful) discussion the evening dinner had in store for me in Indianapolis with my old friend Cathy.

And of course, it helped me find a slightly more charitable light to shine on the unfortunate series of events at the motel…

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

The Hauke Bridge - One of many covered bridges in Indiana, and one of the two I explored on this day.
The inside of the Oakalla bridge in Indiana.
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Author: Neil Hanson

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